Arts and Photography

Seen working with a high end DSLR, I am often asked for my advice on camera choice. The question is something like, "Ah I'm thinking of getting a new camera. What would you suggest is a good one to get?" This is what they say but what they actually mean is, "Wow, I love the look of that camera. You obviously think it's the right one to get. Tell me why I should get one just like that and more importantly, how I can justify the expense to my wife!"

Now before I go any further I should probably explain that as far as I'm concerned, there are two types of photographer. I mention this as an observation without judgement but it seems to hold true. There is the guy who wants the best 'gadget' he can afford. He is dazzled by brands and the most expensive is obviously the most impressive. He can reel off impressive specs as if he's playing trump cards. For him there is only one brand of camera worth buying - everything else is rubbish and all the people who know what they're doing use the same brand as him. The other kind is interested in pictures. He wants quality equipment because it gets the best results. I am very firmly in this second camp. I have some really good equipment but am not quoting brands because as far as I'm concerned the other major producers, produce some really good quality equipment. My only question is, when I show you a picture can you tell which camera I used? Quality is essential but brand loyalty is a matter of personal preference and the only reason I stay with the make I prefer is compatibility with existing equipment and familiarity of use.

So back to the enquiry generated by my dazzling high end DSLR. My question is, "what do you want to do with it?" This usually causes my inquisitor to stumble for a second. He never expects there to be any consideration further than justifying why he wants a camera like mine! After a brief consideration he finds his feet again and explains that he's always been interested in photography and wants to be able to take some nice pictures when he's on holiday or out for the day with the family. He is usually disappointed when I tell him that for those sorts of occasions I have a small but rather good quality digital compact. The potential for high quality images is not anywhere near my high end DSLR but it fits in my pocket. The small compact fits in my pocket so for a family day out it is not the significant burden that a DSLR is. The small compact will take nice family pictures and it's far better to have a camera that's in your pocket and takes pictures to look back on, than a burdensome camera that takes far better pictures if only you'd taken it with you.

If you want to walk 'round with 'a badge' then buy the most expensive you can afford but if you want pictures whilst you're out for a fun day, buy something you'll actually take with you!

Show off your new products, make a special announcement or remember your event with quality images. Contact David Stares at david@davidstaresphotography.co.uk to find out how we can deliver the images you dream of.

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It's true that so many amazing sceneries can be found on land worth taking photos of. There are the beautiful landscapes, sunsets, mountain ranges, plains and a lot more.

But while these are easily available to people anywhere they may go while on land, there are also wonderful sceneries awaiting you at the bottom of the sea. And it's very possible these days to take images of what's underneath from sea creatures, plants and caves.

So what type of camera is best for underwater photography? Is it the compact point and shoot or the more advanced DSLR?

Experts point out that, of course, the DSLR is the sure winner. Being an advanced photographic device, it has its advantages over the compact unit. Firstly, one is able to change lenses depending on his needs in terms of focal length and optics. Secondly, it assures of quality images owing to its large sensor. Thirdly, it has reduced shutter lag and focus delays.

But of course, certain features of compact digital cameras should not be ignored. Despite their small size, they are also capable of capturing great photos under the sea.

Some advantages of a compact underwater camera include its small size and light weight which means it's very ideal for travel, less drag when underwater and lower cost compared to the DSLR. You should also know that a point and shoot camera can shoot video and in the event you get your lenses wet, you can always shoot using the macro mode in wide-angle.

Now if you're on a budget and would like to just get the compact digital camera for your underwater photography, what features should you look for?

The first consideration is a unit that has full manual mode. The experts believe this is an important factor particularly in controlling light.

Get a top quality housing for underwater use. There are plenty available today but if possible, find one that allows you to easily adjust the manual controls including the aperture and shutter speed.

Find out if the brand can take images in wet lenses, macro mode and wide angle. You can also ask if t is able to take fisheye lens.

Look for low shutter lag and long battery life features as well.

A good auto focus feature is also necessary so ask about it from the staff. Keep in mind that certain cameras are slow to focus when underwater.

Some older cameras that can help you achieve your goal when doing underwater photography are the Canon A570 and G9, Olympus 5050 and SP350. There are newer models, however, that can perform better.

One of the latest is the ReefMaster Mini. It is a dive camera that is totally waterproof and one that can be used up to 200 feet. This 9-megapixel camera is very affordable and features automatic settings for diving and snorkeling. It also comes with a color correction software and detachable wide angle lens.

The Canon S95/S100 is also strongly recommended. It comes in a Recsea housing made from solid aluminum and has F2.0 lens as well as a 3-inch LCD.

So choose wisely the digital camera that fits your need to ensure that you get quality images when snorkeling or diving.

For information on photography digital cameras please visit http://www.42photo.com/.

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A good lens is wonderful thing - and every bit as important as a good camera body. The huge number of megapixels available on modern DSLRs are wasted if images are captured through a soft, dull piece of glass. As you grow as a photographer you will learn to appreciate the quality - and in some cases the deficiencies - of different lenses.

But which lens, or lenses, to get started? Your choice depends on what you'd like to shoot and on your budget. In this tutorial I'll try and point you towards options that will help you learn and develop your skills, but also look at which types of lens best suit which type of photography.

Shattering some allusions

My first point may come as a shock - it certainly did to me when I started out. An SLR lens does not fit on any SLR camera. A Canon lens won't work on a Nikon and an old film-era Pentax lens won't work on a Pentax DSLR. Cameras have different mounts (put crudely the size and shape of the hole to which a lens attaches) and nowadays there's all sorts of electronics that has to connect between camera and lens. So hold your horses before grabbing the 'bargain' lens you've spotted in the charity shop. First check that it will fit on/work with your camera body.

Many new DSLR offers include a lens, apparently 'free' or at a considerable saving. On the positive side you gain a lens that has a general purpose zoom meaning you can experiment with different focal lengths. Also, since they are cheap (although only ever 'free' in the same way as an airline meal is) you are not investing much. On the negative side, the image quality is poor. I would recommend spending a little more and aiming higher.

Zooms, primes, wide-angles and telephotos

Most people are familiar with a zoom lens. It covers a range of focal lengths. My most-used lens is a 'general purpose' zoom 24mm-70mm. 24mm (or anything below 35mm) is classed as wide-angle; 70mm and beyond is classed as telephoto. Wide-angle is fairly self-explanatory - it encompasses a large portion of the view in front of you. Telephoto is the opposite. Like a telescope, it allows you to see a much smaller portion but magnified or 'brought closer'.

A prime lens has only one focal length, ie it doesn't zoom. It can be wide-angle, telephoto, or 'normal' (around 50mm which offers roughly the perspective of the human eye). What it lacks in the flexibility of a zoom it makes up for in sharpness and often in width of aperture which allows for crisper shooting in low light conditions. A lens with a wide aperture is known as a 'fast' lens.

Horses for courses

Different lenses suit different types of photography. A sports or a nature photographer would use a telephoto much of the time, often a huge bazooka of a lens with a focal length of 300mm or more. A photojournalist or candid street photographer would often opt for a wide-angle lens when he/she is in the midst of the action. A portrait photographer might want to stick to a 'normal' lens and possibly a prime lens in order to get a narrow depth of focus and therefore draw attention to the eyes. A landscape photographer would probably use a range of focal lengths and might be advised to invest in a general-purpose zoom.

That said, there are no hard and fast rules. Some of the best nature photography I've seen was shot on normal or wide-angle lenses. The unusual perspective and sense of closeness to a wild animal that the viewer gains is fresh and thrilling.

Leave your options open

Many photographers, when they're starting out, have only a vague idea of what they might shoot. You may love nature but soon come to realize that spending days on end waiting for a shot of a woodpecker is a little unrealistic. Instead you may point your camera towards your children.

In order to remain flexible, I would recommend starting off with a general-purpose zoom. Something in the region of 24-70mm or 28-105mm gives you lots of scope for experimentation. You may not be able to catch the expression on the batsman's face when he is bowled out but you can do plenty of portraits, landscapes and close-quarter action.

A 50mm prime lens is also great to have, not least for portraits. 50mms tend to be small, wonderfully sharp and fast. The benefits of sharpness and speed may not be immediately apparent but they will become more and more so as you progress. And 50mms are cheap - you should be able to pick one up for around $100.

And yes, you might want to throw in a telephoto zoom (something like a 70-300mm)

The F factor

You may find lenses with similar focal lengths at very different prices. There are many factors that constitute quality, or lack thereof. Materials are one - they determine durability and image quality (beware plastic lenses).

But probably the biggest factor is the 'F' number. This refers to the width of aperture. A cheap zoom may be marked f4.5-5.6. This means in low light (dusk, indoors) you would really struggle to get sharp shots. By contrast, one prime lens I love is f1.4. This lets in 3 or 4 times as much light as the cheap zoom. This may sound arbitrary but it makes a world of difference if you are shooting in a church without using flash.

It is more expensive to produce lenses with wider apertures (smaller the F number) and they are usually better quality all round.

How/where to buy lenses?

I'm a big fan of 'almost new' second hand lenses, usually found on the Internet. Generally, compared with a new lens, you can save hundreds of dollars on something in immaculate condition which has only been used a handful of times. But, unless the lens is from an eBay seller of proven quality, you still want to give the lens a check.

For any less-than-new lens the first thing to check for is dust and mould. Remove the lens caps at both ends of the lens and point it towards the light. Take a few seconds to peer through. If there is much dust - or spidery traces of mould - you might want to rethink or renegotiate the price.

A note regarding resale: it is always best to keep the box and any accessories, such as lens hoods and pouches. As with any other product, your lens will maintain its value much better.

I'm a photographer based in Sydney's Inner West. While I have always loved portraits, it was the arrival of my son that made me appreciate just how fun and rewarding family photography could be. He's now five and, along with his younger sister, remains my favourite - and at times most challenging - subject. Besides my work as a family photographer, I shoot plenty of weddings as well as documentary work for the likes of the BBC, Marie Claire, The Weekend Australian Magazine, UNICEF, Oxfam and Save the Children.

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